The congress was organized by the Agricultural Resources Recovery Center (CVA, Centre de Valorisation des Agroressources), Cosmetic Valley and Aquitaine Development Innovation (ADI) and highly attended. The speakers tackled the subjects of local sourcing and the use of agricultural by- and waste products for cosmetic purposes. Eco-friendly extraction processes, such as microwave-assisted, ultrasound-assisted and pressurized liquid extraction or subcritical H2O extraction, were also on the agenda.

Local sourcing for sustainable cosmetics

Syntivia’s main goal is to create new cosmetic actives that exhibit strong biological efficacy. Eco-friendliness is now also a key priority to us: we’ve initiated a collaboration with Agri Sud-Ouest Innovation (AgriSOI) and local agricultural cooperatives to study new opportunities for local sourcing and by-product recovery.

Our cosmetic experts already have a history in using natural products for innovative cosmetic ingredients. They’ve recently used a new plant extract to add a natural cosmetic ingredient to Sollice Biotech’s Clotholine^®  range. The selected Bleuet Cornflower is cultivated in the North of France. The Syntivia team has designed an exclusive and eco-friendly soft extraction process to isolate the active molecule.

“Taking into account the impact of making, selling and using cosmetic products on the global environment is (or should be) one of the major criteria for choosing ingredients, formulation types, packaging material and the rest”

Karl Lintner in his last interview in Cossma (2017 issue 3)

Eco-friendly extraction processes

Syntivia also follows the principle of eco-conception to develop cosmetic active ingredients in order to obtain natural extracts, but also synthetic molecules, using green chemistry. We’ve recently teamed up with Chimex in a green cosmetics project that uses eco-friendly extraction techniques to develop a new cosmetic active ingredient. This innovative technique increases the amount of extracted material while reducing the quantity of raw materials required.

Syntivia is currently working on the development of more eco-friendly techniques to source and create innovative cosmetic actives. Don’t hesitate to contact us  for more information.

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A new natural cosmetic ingredient will now enrich Clotholine® range. CLOTHOLINE®LV is the natural version of Clotholine®, a synthetic active ingredient that increases the sense of well-being as well as skin longevity. Thanks to an innovative extraction process, Syntivia isolated the natural molecule of interest and validated its activity compared to the synthetic version.

CLOTHOLINE®LV is based on Syntivia’s innovative active ingredient Clotholine®, which restores youth and improves well-being thanks to its effect on longevity protein Klotho. The Klotho Protein is also known as the Youth Protein. When activated in a living organism, the Klotho protein increases lifespan (Kuro-o et al, 1997). A recent study provides the first evidence that the quantity of Klotho present in a living organism varies under the influence of environmental influences, more precisely chronic psychosocial stressors. Klotho is a new target to mitigate the effect of chronic stress on health and well-being (Prather et al, 2015).

CLOTHOLINE®LV is mainly composed of molecules naturally present in Cornflower Centaurea cyanus. In order to decide on the most appropriate Cornflower for the new active ingredient, several types of Cornflowers of different origins were studied and evaluated. The Bleuet Cornflower we finally selected is cultivated in France and compliant with Chinese regulations on cosmetic products and ingredients. To isolate active molecules from Centaurea Cyanus flowers at a sufficient concentration for CLOTHOLINE®LV, Syntivia used an exclusive soft extraction process.

To evaluate the new ingredient’s effect on the Klotho protein, the activity of the natural cosmetic ingredient was compared to its synthetic version. The Klotho protein was labelled and quantified by automated fluorescent microscopy (Figure 1). The Arrayscan microscope enables the analysis of large data sets and thousands of cells and is ideal for live cell screening. Results are precise, highly reliable and statistically significant.

Figure 1: CLOTHOLINE®LV’s active ingredient strongly increases Klotho protein expression in Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts. Pictures and quantification of Klotho protein in untreated NHDF and NHDF treated with Clotholine®’s active ingredient at 10ppm (A, B). Pictures and quantification of Klotho protein in untreated NHDF and NHDF treated with CLOTHOLINE®LV active ingredient at 10ppm. (C, D). The nuclei are labelled in blue and Klotho in green.

This in vitro study demonstrates that Clotholine® and CLOTHOLINE®LV have a comparable effect on Klotho expression. Indeed, Clotholine® increases the expression of Klotho by 98% when compared to the control, whereas the CLOTHOLINE®LV Centaurea cyanus flower extract raises it by 83%.

Both Clotholine® and CLOTHOLINE®LV promote the longevity of the dermis by activating the synthesis of the Klotho protein to preserve cells from aging. Syntivia has developed CLOTHOLINE®LV for the account of Sollice Biotech.

References 

KURO-O M., MATSUMURA Y., AIZAWA H., KAWAGUCHI H., SUGA T., UTSUGI T., OHYAMA Y., KURABAYASHI M., KANAME T., KUMEK E., IWASAKIK H., IIDA A., SHIRAKI-IIDA T., NISHIKAWA S., NAGAI R. AND NABESHIMA Y. Mutation of the mouse Klotho gene leads to a syndrome resembling ageing, Nature Vol 390. 1997.

PRATHER A. A., ESPEL E. S., ARENANDER J., BROESTL L., GARAY B., WANG D. AND DUBAL D. B. Longevity factor klotho and chronic psychological stress, Translational Psychiatry. 2015.

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As ECD focussed on New Plant Chemistry this year, Céline presented SYNTIVIA’s innovative strategy to develop cosmetic ingredients combining click chemistry and green chemistry using a new generation of automated robots for synthesis.

SLT Parallel Synthesizer – Chemspeed

One of our lines of research involves automatic parallelization of “one-pot” synthesis. Within the context of green chemistry and click chemistry, this efficient tool provides new chemical entities which will be screened for biological activity in a medium through-put fashion. The goal is to regularly offer new and innovative compounds and active cosmetics of plant-based origin. With this tool, it is also possible to screen different protocols and rapidly identify “eco-friendly” processes to replace conventional chemical processes.

Example of synthesis process optimization using a green solvent:
Eight alternative green solvents were screened in one single run.

This new generation of automatic synthesis robots (Accelerator SLT106 – Chemspeed Technologies) enables the creation of molecular libraries. This device recreates classical synthetic conditions, in an automated and parallel manner (reagent preparation, reaction with control of the reaction conditions: temperature, pressure, inert gas … and of work-up). This tool potentially supports all processes authorized by the environmental guidelines.

Thanks to this technology, SYNTIVIA has already designed and produced several libraries containing molecules derived from natural compounds, in particular natural phenols. The selection of these compounds, such as derivatives hydroxybenzaldehydes (vanillin family) or cinnamic acids (caffeic acid family), was made due to, among other things, their antioxidant activities. These molecules were coupled to different functional groups with complementary activities of natural origin to create active ingredients with new and stronger activities.

Please don’t hesitate to contact us for more information.

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