SYNTIVIA conducts hi-tech cosmetic formulation studies that are exclusively designed for cosmetic research purposes. These custom studies provide a comprehensive answer to any questions or doubts customers may have on whether or not to incorporate a new ingredient in a particular formula or to replace one specific active ingredient by another… The present study on a new silk derivative named SILKgel – FX* illustrates SYNTIVIA’s approach. Tests were conducted to ensure the product could be used as a substitute for silicones in a given cosmetic formulation. As results were successful, this opened up numerous possibilities for the active ingredient to be used in innovative cosmetic formulas and to extend its range of possibilities.

In order to conduct this study, SYNTIVIA used a substitution test to compare silicones and  SILKgel – FX, a new derivative of silk. SILKgel – FX is a fibroin protein-based gel containing microporous structures that are highly compatible with water and oil ingredients. The product is a new active cosmetic ingredient obtained via an innovative biotechnological process that allows to maintain the natural structure of silk proteins.

To evaluate the ingredient’s potential to be used as a substitute for silicones, a sensory analysis was set up using 10 different criteria (prehension, texture, melting, spread, skin penetration, soft finish, oily finish, sticky finish, shiny finish, and residual film). The test was carried out on volunteers and the product was compared to two conventional silicones, i.e. Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethicone. Both SILKgel – FX and the silicones were tested at a concentration of 10%.

Formulation evaluation comparison to silicons of a new functionnal ingredient


SILKgel – FX obtains ratings that are similar to both silicones for the following criteria: prehension, texture, melting, spread, penetration and soft finish. The silk derivative scores at an intermediate level between the two silicones for residual film, sticky and shiny finish.
SILKgel – FX can therefore be considered to create a silicone-like film and may present a new alternative to the use of silicones in cosmetics. Moreover, the SILKgel – FX is a product that can very easily be integrated in cosmetic formulas. Its oil absorption capacity and water compatibility allow to incorporate SILKgel – FX without using emulsifiers.

SYNTIVIA conducts specific cosmetic formulation studies to evaluate:

– the compatiblility of a new cosmetic product with specific formulas,

– the ingredient’s stability in a given cosmetic formulation

– the results of topical application on human skin explants.

Please don’t hesitate to contact us for further information.


*The results shown in this study were obtained with SILKgel – FX for the account of Sollice Biotech, who kindly consented to having them published on our website.